If the month of February is more wintery, the general maintenance measures are hardly changed compared to January. However, a winter high-pressure weather situation with cold can result in greater differences in temperatures. The solar radiation already causes an increase in the heat under glass, while u. U. very cold nights bring strong cooling. Regulating the heating, regardless of the conditions under which orchids are cared for, the greatest attention must be paid to one side as well as the other. Nevertheless, a stronger nocturnal drop in temperature cannot be avoided, the moisture levels are to be adjusted accordingly, so to keep it low. The most critical time for the plants cared for directly in the room is still due to the extremely dry air in our living environment. Shielding by covering with foil should be considered. Additional exposure is still appropriate. It should be from the beginning of dusk until about 22 Clock will be granted; however, it only becomes effective then, when the other growth factors are proportionate. A longer exposure time is of course necessary, when there is not enough daylight, to secure the subsistence level. The bud formation or. -Further development is greatly facilitated by additional light, u. U. secured in the first place.
The sun's intensity increases noticeably towards the middle to the end of the month. In exposed areas, light shading may be necessary in the midday hours, especially for Paphiopedilum and Phalaenopsis.
Cattleya/Laelia: With the exception of budding and flowering plants, the species and hybrids are still dormant. Increased humidity on sunny days indicates the beginning of the growth period towards the end of the month.
Cymbidium: Flowering or. budding plants need normal moisture, the temperature must be kept relatively low by supplying fresh air. Beware of possible. flying bumblebees; when visiting flowers they trigger the pollinia, which equates to the loss of the flowers. Non-flowering plants should still be kept cool and moderately moist.
Paphiopedilum: Necessary transplanting must now be carried out, as long as there is no bud attachment. You avoid excessive bale moisture as well as excessive drying out. The plants must be sprayed in good time, that they have dried off by evening.
Phalaenopsis: Uniform moisture and sufficient light are prerequisites for the complete development of the pre-formed buds, which can turn yellow and fall off during long periods of very cloudy weather.
Dendrobium: Types of the cool section remain cool and relatively dry, bei D. nobile and their forms and varieties, bud formation can begin. The species and hybrids that need more warmth also remain dormant at around + 15-18° C and low humidity.
Odontoglossum, Oncidium and related genera are still dormant; Under no circumstances should Odonto-glossum grande be injected, only occasionally moisten the plant material a little.
Vanda: Für Vanda coerulea, V. tricolor and similar a lot of light, moderate warmth, little water during the entire rest period. Species and hybrids of the warm section, like V. sanderiana, are to be kept evenly moist and need regularly in the winter months 2 Hours of additional light or more, so that flowering successes are certain.