Proper watering is one of the main problems in orchid care. It requires undivided attention when placing the plants in the room as well as in the plant window or greenhouse, only the basic conditions are different everywhere. General is to be said, that the right humidity has a regulating effect on the water balance of the plant. Low humidity requires more moisture from the plant material, so more frequent watering. However, lower pad moisture is far more beneficial for growth – so pour less, but inject more often, as finely distributed as possible. This is how it is prevented, that the roots are damaged by too moist plant material or that weak shoots form due to excessive dryness. The oxygen demand of the roots of epiphytic orchids forbids a sustained high humidity of the plant material, also in the growing season. It should never be extremely wet, just be damp. Occasional severe drying out for a short period of time is beneficial; the alternation of moisture and dryness comes close to the conditions at home. One should 1-2 check the plants more closely for the right moisture once a week, pour or dip the dry ones, Otherwise, however, never water every day. Terrestrial orchids need more moisture than epiphytes. In general, almost only Paphiopedilum come into consideration here. They receive plenty of water during the growing season – both by more frequent watering and by repeated overspray, especially during hot days. There is no rest period, only the humidity is reduced somewhat according to their different temperature requirements, especially with the cooler species and hybrids. Very needy of warmth – such as. Paphiopedilum maudiae – remain constantly at temperatures of +20 up to + 25 ° C and uniform humidity. Paphiopedilum are very fond of moisture rising from below. They should never stand on dry surfaces; By placing peat or sphagnum that is to be kept moist, evaporation is created, possibly also by pouring on water. There are only a few Paphiopedilum in a collection, for which special treatment is not possible, it is enough, embed the pots in a larger bowl with moss or peat. This measure prevents small pots from drying out too quickly and can also be used successfully with other orchids.
During the rest period, you may. can increase the time between the exact review, only the plant material should never dry out too much. Since this is mostly the case on the surface, it can lead to incorrect conclusions about the overall condition. When the surface of the bale appears dry, the inside can still be damp or even abundantly damp. A bit of experience is required to assess the correct level of humidity, which soon sets in with ongoing observation of the plants. Beginners mostly tend to do this, to pour too much with a well-intentioned intention. Generally one should be aware of, that in orchid care too much moisture can spoil more than too little water.
The texture of the pour- and water splash is of particular importance to success. tap water, its use is first thought of for obvious reasons, is usually not suitable for plant care, da es u.U. is chemically treated. So it is important, knowing its chemical reaction. We distinguish between two measurable values, namely the hydrogen ion concentration – expressed as pH – and the hardness of the water. Pure water has a pH of 7; it is hardly present in nature in this state, but, depending on the substances dissolved in it, acidic, d.h. below the value of pH 7 or alkaline = above pH 7.
The water used for orchid care should be around pH 5 lie, so in the slightly acidic range.